(para o Manel/to Manel - even if he doesn't understand)
Numa recôndita ilha da larga superfície azul, no cruzamento entre diversos mares e correntes, localizava-se um Diamante há tempo incerto. Relatos de aventureiros deixam-nos adivinhar como desafiaram aquelas ondas impávidas mas não serenas, direitas que se prolongavam numa dinâmica absolutamente única defronte de uma encosta luxuriante; e, como por estradas sinuosas de margens abruptas se atingia aquela plenitude majestosa e cristalina.
Em dias de gala, o mar azul-forte ecoava por toda a montanha, e dizia-se que as notícias do vento transportavam o cheiro do swell até outras ilhas distantes. Surfistas de localidades remotas acordavam agitados durante a noite, com o pressentimento do swell que chegaria a atingir a ilha; a outros, entranhava-se-lhes nos sonhos, fazendo-os acordar de madrugada com a boca a saber a sal e o corpo doído da pancadaria impiedosa de sets violentos e ondas insurfadas.
Mas o rei daquelas ilhas não sabia apanhar ondas. Ciumento pelo uso externo e incapacitado de usufruir o diamante da sua ilha, destruiu-o.
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In a recondite island within the vast blue surface, among the reunion of several seas and currents, a while ago there lived a Diamond. Adventurers' stories allow us to guess how they have challenged those fearless, yet troubled rights that would prolong themselves with an absolutely unique dinamic way, in front of a luxurious hill; and how thru sinuous roads of abrupt margins one could achieve all this cristal-clear majestic plenitude.
On royal days, the dark-blue sea would echo in all the mountain, and it was said that the wind would blow the news of the swell until far, far away destinations. Surfers from remote locations would restlessly wake up in the middle of the night, with the feeling of the swell about to hit the island; to others, in would get into their dreams, waking them early at dawn with their mouths filled with salt and an hurted body due to the pitiless charge of violent sets and unsurfed waves.
But the king of the island couldn’t surf. Jealous by the external usufruct and unable to cherish the Diamond of his lands, he simply destroyed it.
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